Hair after summer: how to recover it

September arrives and the hair looks different: dry, rough to the touch, without shine, with split ends, lighter or with odd tints. At the same time, it seems to fall out more. It is easy to lump everything together, but they are two different phenomena. Summer damages the shaft, the part of the hair that is already outside the skin and has no life of its own. Hair loss comes from the root, the follicle, and in autumn it has mainly a seasonal component.

The hair shaft does not "regenerate": what is damaged can only be protected, disguised or cut off. But with the right care it is possible to stop the damage, reduce breakage and restore shine and pliability while new hair grows.

What summer does to hair

A hair strand has three layers: the cuticle, an outer layer of overlapping scales that protects and gives shine; the cortex, made of proteins (keratin) and pigment (melanin), which gives strength, elasticity and colour; and, in thicker hairs, a central zone called the medulla. On the surface of the cuticle there is a thin layer of lipids that makes hair water-repellent and smooth. Summer attacks all of these layers.

Sun (ultraviolet radiation)

UV radiation oxidises hair proteins, especially the sulphur-containing amino acids that maintain the structure of keratin, and degrades the lipid layer on the surface. The result is a rougher, less elastic and more fragile hair shaft. Radiation also degrades melanin, which explains "sun-bleached" hair and the fading of artificial colours. The review by Nogueira, Dicelio and Joekes (2006) stresses that melanin has a protective role and that the effect varies with the type and amount of pigment: light and grey hair tend to be more vulnerable.

Chlorine

Swimming-pool chlorine is an oxidant. It removes surface lipids, lifts the scales of the cuticle and, with repeated exposure, weakens the cortex. Regular swimmers are the most studied group and the one that suffers this kind of damage most.

And green hair? Contrary to popular belief, it is not chlorine that turns hair green, but the copper present in the water (from algicides or from pipes). Copper binds to keratin, especially when hair is already damaged by bleaching, sun or chlorine, and it is more noticeable in blonde hair.

Salt and sand

Sea water, as it evaporates, leaves salt crystals that draw water out of the hair and make it stiffer. Sand and wind increase friction and break the ends.

Heat, humidity and repetition

Hair absorbs water and swells; as it dries, it shrinks. Repeated dips and showers throughout the day, for weeks, wear out the cuticle (known as "hygral fatigue"). On top of that come the hairdryer and straighteners used to disguise the effect of the beach.

An important point

All of this damage happens in the hair shaft, which has no living cells. The follicle, inside the skin, is not affected by sun, chlorine or salt under normal conditions. That is why the hair that grows in after summer comes in healthy.

Breakage or shedding? How to tell

It is the most important question, because the solution is different.

The hair test: collect a few hairs from the brush and look at them against a dark surface. If most have a bulb, it is hair loss. If most have broken ends on both sides, it is breakage.

Often there are both at once: some breakage from summer and some seasonal shedding. On autumn hair loss, see Why more hair falls out in autumn: what is known.

A recovery plan over four to six weeks

Week 1: assess and trim

• Trim damaged ends. It is the only way to get rid of split ends: once open, no product "glues" them for long, and the split tends to travel up the hair. Usually 1 to 3 centimetres is enough.
• Take a "break" from chemicals: postpone bleaching, straightening and perms for at least four to six weeks.
• Clarify once, if the hair has been heavily exposed to chlorine or styling products: a deep-cleansing shampoo removes residues and minerals. Then go back to a gentle shampoo.

Weeks 1 to 6: basic routine

• Gentle shampoo, applied mainly to the scalp; the lather that runs down is enough for the ends.
• Always use conditioner, from the mid-lengths to the ends. Conditioner provides positively charged substances that bind to the damaged (negatively charged) surface, smooth the cuticle and reduce friction when combing. It is the care step with the best ratio of evidence to cost.
• A mask once or twice a week, leaving it on for the time indicated.
• Leave-in conditioner or serum on the ends, especially for long or curly hair.
• Oil before washing, optional. In the study by Rele and Mohile (2003), coconut oil applied before and after washing reduced hair protein loss, in both damaged and undamaged hair, unlike mineral oil and sunflower oil. The effect was attributed to the ability of coconut oil to penetrate the hair shaft. This is a laboratory study, on hair tresses, but it is an inexpensive and safe option for most people.

Everyday habits

• Dry with a towel by pressing, without rubbing; a microfibre towel or a cotton T-shirt reduces friction.
• Detangle with a wide-toothed comb, from the ends to the root.
• Use the hairdryer at a medium temperature and at some distance; cut down on the flat iron and styler and always use a heat protectant.
• Tie your hair with metal-free hair ties and without pulling tight.
• Sleep with your hair loose or in a loose braid; a satin pillowcase can reduce friction.

What to expect

After two to three weeks, the hair should be softer, shinier and tangle less. The improvement in the hair shaft is cosmetic: products improve the surface but do not rebuild the hair. Full recovery comes with growth, about 1 centimetre a month, and with regular trims.

Specific care for each hair type

Coloured or highlighted hair

The sun fades colour and bleached hair already has a more open cuticle. Before touching up the colour, it is worth waiting for the hair to recover some pliability. Shampoos and masks for coloured hair help to maintain the colour. In blonde hair with greenish tones, the hairdresser can use specific treatments to remove the copper (with chelating agents).

Natural blonde or grey hair

It has less melanin and therefore less protection from the sun. It tends to turn yellowish and drier. In the coming summers, prevention is especially useful.

Curly or coily hair

The shape of the hair makes it naturally drier, because scalp sebum travels down it with more difficulty, and more prone to breaking at the curves. It benefits from more moisture (leave-in conditioner, more frequent masks), less shampooing and avoiding dry brushing.

Fine hair

It breaks easily and becomes "heavy" with very rich products. Prefer light conditioners and apply only to the ends.

For next summer

Wet your hair with fresh water before getting into the pool (already wet hair absorbs less chlorinated water), wear a swimming cap in the pool, rinse with fresh water after the sea, wear a hat and hair products with UV filters, and reduce the heat from styling tools during the holidays.

And the scalp?

The scalp also suffers in summer and, unlike the hair shaft, it is living tissue.

• Sunburn on the parting or on areas with less hair. It peels weeks later and can be mistaken for dandruff. Sun protection for the scalp (a hat, spray or gel sunscreen) matters, because it is an area at risk of skin cancer, especially in people with thin hair or baldness.
• Seborrhoeic dermatitis (dandruff with redness). It can worsen at the end of summer and in autumn. Shampoos with antifungals (such as ketoconazole) or other active ingredients are effective; if it does not improve, it should be assessed.
• Folliculitis. Small spots around the follicles, caused by heat, sweat, swimming pools or hot tubs. It usually resolves with hygiene; if it persists or hurts, seek advice.
• Itching and dryness, from excessive washing or irritating products.

A scalp lesion that does not heal, that bleeds or that has changed in appearance should be seen by a doctor.

When you should ask for an assessment

Summer damage usually resolves at home and at the hairdresser.

At Luxmed, the hair medicine consultation includes examination of the scalp and trichoscopy, which shows under magnification both the hair shaft (breakage, split ends, irregularities) and the follicles. This is how a shaft problem is distinguished from hair loss that needs a different approach.

This article is for information purposes and does not replace a medical consultation. The results of any treatment vary from person to person.

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