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If your skin burns, stings or turns red with products that other people use without any problem, you are not alone. "Sensitive skin" is one of the most common complaints in consultations and now has its own medical definition: a disproportionate reaction to stimuli that should not normally cause discomfort.
The good news is that, in most cases, a short, well-chosen routine calms the skin within a few weeks. The other important part is recognising when redness is not "just sensitivity" but a sign of a condition with its own treatment, such as rosacea or dermatitis.
Three ideas to remember.
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What sensitive skin actually is
In 2017, an international group of experts reached a consensus definition: sensitive skin is a syndrome of unpleasant sensations, such as stinging, burning, pain, itching or tingling, in response to stimuli that should not normally cause them (Misery et al., 2017).
Three points in this definition help to understand the problem:
- The main symptom is the sensation, not the colour. The skin may look normal or turn red. Redness often accompanies it, but it is not essential.
- It is not explained by another skin condition. If there is an underlying condition, such as rosacea or eczema, treatment focuses on that condition. The two can coexist.
- There is no test to confirm it. Diagnosis is based on the symptoms and on ruling out other causes.
Is it common?
Very. A meta-analysis of studies from several countries concluded that about 7 in 10 people consider their skin to be sensitive to some degree, and about 4 in 10 say it is "very" or "quite" sensitive (Chen et al., 2020). It is reported slightly more often by women, and the face is the most affected area.
Why it happens
The exact causes are still being studied, but there are two main pieces (Misery et al., 2020):
- More reactive skin nerves. TRP receptors, which detect heat, cold and irritants, fire in response to weak stimuli. The skin "feels" more than it should.
- A weakened skin barrier. When the outer layer of the skin loses lipids and water, irritants get in more easily and reach closer to the nerve endings.
Triggers vary: cosmetics, hard or very hot water, temperature changes, wind, air conditioning, pollution, stress and hormonal changes.
When redness has another cause
Not all red, reactive skin is "sensitive skin". These are the most common causes worth telling apart, because they have specific treatments:
| Condition | Typical clues | Read more |
|---|---|---|
| Rosacea | Persistent redness in the centre of the face, flushing with heat or alcohol, pimples without blackheads, visible blood vessels | Rosacea: what it is, causes and treatments |
| Seborrhoeic dermatitis | Redness with yellowish flaking on the sides of the nose, eyebrows and scalp | Consultation |
| Contact dermatitis | Redness, itching or eczema after a new product, sometimes only where it was applied | Consultation; may require patch tests |
| Atopic dermatitis | Dry, itchy skin since childhood, often with a history of asthma or rhinitis | Consultation |
| Skin irritated by too many products | Burning after acids, retinoids or exfoliants, tight and shiny skin | Pause and a minimal routine |
Fragrance is the most common cause of cosmetic allergy. In the European Union, the most common fragrance allergens must be listed among the ingredients, which helps to identify them.
The daily routine: short and consistent
Experts recommend using well-tolerated cosmetics with few ingredients and avoiding identified triggers (Misery et al., 2020). In practice, three steps are enough.
In the morning
- Cleanse with lukewarm water only, or with a gentle product if the skin is oily.
- Moisturise with a simple, fragrance-free cream.
- Protect from the sun with SPF 30 to 50. Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are usually better tolerated. See Tinted sunscreen: how to choose and how to apply.
In the evening
- Cleanse with a gentle, soap-free product with a pH close to that of the skin. To remove make-up, use micellar water or a gentle cleansing oil, removed without rubbing.
- Moisturise, with a richer texture if the skin is dry or tight.
Ingredients that usually help
| Ingredient | What for |
|---|---|
| Ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids | Replenish the barrier lipids |
| Glycerin, hyaluronic acid | Attract and retain water |
| Panthenol | Soothe and support repair |
| Niacinamide at low concentration | Strengthen the barrier and reduce redness |
| Thermal water, colloidal oatmeal | Soothing effect |
A golden rule: fewer products, fewer ingredients. Every extra ingredient is one more chance of a reaction.
What to avoid and how to test new products
Avoid or use with care
- Fragrance and essential oils, including "natural" ones;
- Alcohol among the first ingredients on the list;
- Menthol, camphor and eucalyptus, which feel refreshing but irritate;
- Gritty scrubs, facial brushes and sponges;
- Acids (glycolic, salicylic) and retinoids without medical guidance;
- Very hot water, saunas and long baths;
- Changing products frequently.
How to test a new product
- Apply a small amount twice a day to the same area, behind the ear or along the jawline.
- Repeat for 5 to 7 days.
- If there is no burning, redness or itching, extend it to the whole face.
- Introduce one new product at a time, with at least a week between them. This is the only way to know which one is responsible if there is a reaction.
If your skin flares up
Stop all active products for 1 to 2 weeks and stick to gentle cleansing, a simple moisturiser and sunscreen. If it does not calm down, seek an assessment.
When to seek a medical assessment
Book an appointment if:
At Luxmed, the Facial Aesthetics consultation starts by understanding the cause of the sensitivity and sets out a routine adapted to your skin, with medical treatment when necessary.
Talk to us
The assessment is a conversation, with no obligation. Tell us what concerns you and our team will reply.
Telephone 214 044 241 · info@luxmed.pt
This article is for information only and does not replace a medical consultation.
Frequently asked questions
Is sensitive skin the same as dry skin?
No. Dry skin lacks lipids and water; sensitive skin reacts with burning or stinging. They can coexist, and dryness makes sensitivity worse.
Are "hypoallergenic" products a guarantee of safety?
Not entirely. The term indicates that the product was formulated to reduce the risk of allergy, but it does not eliminate it. Testing is still important.
Are "natural" products better for sensitive skin?
Not always. Plant extracts and essential oils are among the frequent causes of irritation and allergy.
Can I use acids or retinol if I have sensitive skin?
Some people tolerate them, but only on medical advice, at low concentration and introduced slowly. The skin is stabilised first.
Can sensitive skin be cured?
It can improve a great deal with a well-cared-for barrier and controlled triggers. In many people, sensitivity fluctuates throughout life, with the climate, hormones and stress.
Can stress make sensitive skin worse?
Yes. Emotional stress is one of the triggers most often reported, both in sensitive skin and in rosacea.
Scientific references 5
- Misery L et al. Definition of sensitive skin: an expert position paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch. Acta Derm Venereol. 2017;97(1):4-6. Artigo
- Misery L et al. Pathophysiology and management of sensitive skin: position paper from the special interest group on sensitive skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch (IFSI). J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020;34(2):222-229. Registo
- Chen W, Dai R, Li L. The prevalence of self-declared sensitive skin: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020;34(8):1779-1788. PubMed
- Misery L, Maibach HI. Editorial: Pathophysiology of sensitive skin. Front Med. 2020;7:159. Artigo
- National Rosacea Society. New survey pinpoints leading factors that trigger symptoms. Rosacea Review, 2002. Artigo
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