Enlarged pores: can they be "closed"? What is realistic

Enlarged pores are among the most frequent complaints in facial aesthetics, especially on the nose, cheeks and forehead. They are also among the most surrounded by myths: cold water to "close" them, steam to "open" them, "astringent" toners, nose strips.

The truth is less magical and more useful. Pores have no muscles, so they neither open nor close. But they can look bigger or smaller depending on the amount of sebum, the firmness of the surrounding skin and cleanliness. And there are treatments that consistently make them less visible.

What a pore is and why it becomes enlarged

A pore is the opening at the surface of a pilosebaceous follicle: a channel where a hair grows (often almost invisible) and where a sebaceous gland opens. We all have pores; they are more visible where the sebaceous glands are larger, such as on the nose, forehead, chin and centre of the cheeks.

A review by Lee and colleagues (2016) identified three main causes of enlarged pores:

1. Excess sebum

Large, very active sebaceous glands produce more sebum, which dilates the channel at its exit. That is why oily skin has more visible pores. Sebum production depends greatly on androgenic hormones, genetics and climate.

2. Loss of firmness around the pore

The collagen and elastin around each pore work as a support ring. With age and sun, this support weakens, the skin gives way and the pore looks elongated or teardrop-shaped, especially on the cheeks.

3. Follicle volume

Follicles with thicker hairs, as on a man's face, have larger openings.

Other factors

• Recurrent acne, which leaves pores enlarged and at times scars that look like pores.
• Hormones: variations through the cycle, pregnancy, polycystic ovary syndrome.
• Blockage: oxidised sebum and dead cells form blackheads and "sebaceous filaments" that make the pore more visible.
• Habits: squeezing, over-exfoliating, very occlusive products.
• Genetics and ethnicity: pore size varies greatly between people.

Blackheads or sebaceous filaments?

Many "blackheads" on the nose are actually sebaceous filaments: small columns of sebum and cells that fill the pore, greyish in colour, which form again within days. They are normal. True blackheads (open comedones) are darker, raised and part of acne.

Myths about pores

What has evidence at home

Retinoids

Retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde and, by prescription, tretinoin or adapalene) normalise cell turnover at the pore opening, prevent blockage and stimulate the surrounding collagen. They are among the actives with the most evidence for reducing the visibility of pores, in the medium term (three to six months). Start slowly, at night, two to three times a week. Do not use in pregnancy.

Salicylic acid (BHA)

Fat-soluble, it penetrates the pore and dissolves sebum and accumulated cells. Useful on oily skin with blackheads, as a 0.5% to 2% gel or toner, a few times a week or daily, depending on tolerance.

Niacinamide

Topical niacinamide was associated with a reduction in sebum production in a study using a 2% application (Draelos et al., 2006), as well as improving the barrier and tone. It is well tolerated and combines well with other actives.

Sunscreen

The sun breaks down the collagen that supports the pore. Daily protection is essential to stop pores from "giving way" over time. On oily skin, prefer fluid or gel textures with a dry finish.

Appropriate cleansing

Once or twice a day, with a gentle gel. A double cleanse at night (oil or balm, then gel) helps remove sunscreen and make-up.

Clay masks

They absorb sebum at the surface and give a temporary matt effect. Once a week, without letting it dry completely.

Make-up

Silicone primers temporarily fill the pore and give a smoother look. Prefer non-comedogenic products and remove them thoroughly.

In-clinic treatments

When home care is not enough, there are treatments that work at greater depth. The choice depends on the main cause in your case (sebum, loss of firmness, acne scars).

For most people, the best results come from combining a suitable routine at home with a series of in-clinic treatments, spaced a few weeks apart. See Chemical peel: what to expect on the day, during the peeling and in the following weeks.

Realistic expectations

• Pores do not disappear. They are normal structures of the skin. The goal is to make them less visible.
• Results are gradual: four to twelve weeks for oiliness and texture; three to six months for the effects of retinoids and of treatments that stimulate collagen.
• Maintenance is necessary: when care stops, sebum and blockage return.
• Genetics count: some people have naturally more visible pores and will improve, but will not end up with the "pore-free" skin seen in filtered photographs.

Common mistakes

• Exfoliating every day with scrubs or brushes.
• Using toners with too much alcohol.
• Squeezing at home.
• Using very occlusive creams on oily skin.
• Sleeping with make-up on.
• Skipping sunscreen.

When to seek help

At Luxmed, the skin assessment identifies the main cause of your pores and defines a combination of home care and, if it makes sense, in-clinic treatments.

This article is for information purposes and does not replace a medical consultation. The results of any treatment vary from person to person.

Frequently asked questions